This past summer, the Caesar salad turned 101 years old. In the years since its debut at an Italian restaurant––after guests reportedly ordered “something off the menu”–– the caesar salad has gone through some major changes. At many restaurants around the world, romaine lettuce has been swapped for kale; anchovy dressing for “yogurt or miso or lemongrass”; and croutons for “pig ear, kimchi, poached duck egg, and buffalo-cauliflower fritters” (per the Atlantic). “We are living through an age of unchecked Caesar-salad fraud,” the magazine declared.
In honor of the salad’s centennial birthday, we took a deep-dive into its history, from the first Caesar salad to the rise of “fake Caesars.”
Where Was the First Caesar Salad Created?
As you probably know by now, the first Caesar salad wasn’t created in Italy; it was made in Tijuana, Mexico. In 1924, Caesar Cardini opened an Italian restaurant in Tijuana; on July 4th of that year, with too many tables to feed and not enough food, Cardini assembled leftovers from the kitchen: heads of romaine lettuce, egg, cheese, and Worcestershire sauce. Guests “ate it up.”
Since its creation, several theories have contested its origins. According to one theory, it was not Cardini who created the salad, but his brother, Alex, who “put together a finger food from the best ingredients he could find in the kitchen” for a crew of visiting American pilots. Another theory suggests that one of Cardini’s employees created the salad, and, once it took off, Cardini “slapped his name on it.”
How Did Caesar Salad Become Popular?
During the ’20s, America was “sober,” but Mexico wasn’t. During that era, Tijuana experienced major foot traffic, with tourists, particularly Hollywood celebrities, who wished to drink and gamble. (The LA Times declared Tijuana as “the city that was Vegas before Vegas.”) As Serious Eats wrote, “The more celebrities loved and asked for the dish, the more the dish appeared on menus across Los Angeles and California at large.” Eventually, the salad made its way nationwide, before being passed along to Europe.
When Did “Fake Caesars” Start Appearing on Menus?
Though there isn’t a definitive year, it’s estimated that “fake caesars” began showing up on menus in the 70s. James Beard reportedly “returned from a trip out West raving about a Caesar topped with fried chicken livers (the Atlantic). “The chicken Caesar started appearing on menus, ” the Atlantic wrote, followed by the steak Caesar, and “it went downhill from there.”
But, as Chang noted, “The Caesar is forever, which means it’s forever being manipulated. For better and for worse.”
At Bricco, our Caesar salad pays homage to Cardini’s original dish, with crispy lettuce, anchovy dressing, and parmesan cheese shavings on top. But our Caesar also nods to innovation: on each side of the dish, two fried ricotta balls (known as ricotta polpette) sit on the edge. It’s the perfect combination of the past and the present.
Ready to Eat a Traditional Caesar Salad in the North End? Book Your Table at Bricco Tonight!
At Bricco, we’re big believers in tradition. From our classic Caesar salad to our old-World pasta dishes, our menu features the authentic tastes of Italy. Reserve your table with us online, or call us at 617-248-6800.